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Himachal in Winter -- Advice needed


vroomfondel

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A friend and I are pseudo-backpacking into Himachal this winter (dec 24-Jan 3, travel included). Will be taking a train to Pathankot, and then a train to mcleodgunj/dharamsala area -- that is the tentative plan. I am getting put off by the number of 'hippie encounter stories' I have heard, so am looking for something more out of the way. I would really like to check out the Spiti Valley area, has anyone been in winter: I doubt there are any motorable roads, but I would like to make sure... We will not be bringing tents (because it will be so friggin cold) and plan to stay around inhabited areas and do day hikes. other options include -- rewalsar lake, mandi, manali area (don't want to deal with manali proper, but if there are nice hikes/satellite towns reachable by walk/bus then that's perfect) Anything of interest around that area, accessible in winter? Personal experiences would be great.

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is time to lag jayegi. Half of the roads will be closed. My apartment mate here went on a trip long time back but that was organized by some Nature Lover's Association in his city. But he went in summer. He went to manali and Bhrigu lake. He set up the camp here. http://www.above14000ft.com/treks/bhrigulake.html You need to contact the local authorities about guides. But this time of the season you might find hard. Hope this helps

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vroom, I've hiked quite a lot in Himachal even during the winters. As long as you are below 3000-3500 meters(depending on how much snow fall there has been till now, my guess is it's too early in the year for too much snow) you won't need any special equipment. We never took any guides with us, but if you intend to they might be a bit hard to get this time of the year. In Dharamshala area one hike I would recommend would be one to Triund. There is a guest house and a dhaba at the top if you want to stay the night there, but it can also be done as a day hike. IIRC, around 15 km one way. Provides a breath taking view of the Dhauladars where you can do mountaineering during the winters or during the summers they can be traversed as part of a long backpacking trip.

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thanks guys for the responses. shwetabh, thanks for the input. I have been totally put off Dharamshala after all the buddhist-goray-finding-themselves-eating-german/italian-food stories I heard. Instead, I am thinking of doing Har-ki-doon in uttarakashi/gharwal, going by a couple of recommendations from Indiamike. There is a guy there that did it in December -- http://almoraboy.blogspot.com/2006/06/har-ki-dun-trip-home.html The tentative plan looks like this: Day 1: Sankri – Taluka (12 Km, 6-7 hrs). possibly jeepable. Day 2: (if jeeps are out) Taluka – Datmir –Seema (18-20 Km's, 11 hrs). H Day 3: Seema – Har Ki Doon (14 km, 7-8 hrs, 2800M to 3650M) Sankri, Taluka, Seema, Har Ki Doon all have GMVN and FRH sheds.So no need of tents. A decent down jacket, subzero sleeping bag etc. should be enough. Any experience with the HKD trail, shwet (or anyone else)? I'll post pictures once I'm back.

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shwetabh, thanks for the input. I have been totally put off Dharamshala after all the buddhist-goray-finding-themselves-eating-german/italian-food stories I heard.
If your primary interest is hiking, these sort of things will be of little consequence. Once you are out on the trail it's just you, your mates, and nature. But anyhow, Uttaranchal is a nice choice too. It lacks the jaw dropping beauty of some places in Himachal but is wonderful in it's own right, though I must confess I haven't done too much hiking there. Haven't done the Har Ki Doon trail. Have done Pindari/Kafni glacier, Valley of Flowers (probably snowed out by this time of the year), and Gangotri treks there. But I have heard Har Ki Doon is really nice. I think you can continue on it all the way to Yamnotri if you can spare a few more days. Really want to do the Nanda Devi Sanctuary trip there, but that would probably be snowed out too at this time of the year.
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the primary interest is hiking, for sure. and i realize that i am probably giving dharamshala a bum rap. I was excited/repulsed (at the same time) by the prospect of meeting his holiness, the big DL, or at least listening to him speak in mcleod for the jan festival. but my friend is a rabid atheist who has no patience for such 'dhongis'. so uttarakhand it is. yamunotri will be intractable by early jan, i am told. wow,valley of flowers, pindari, gangotri (and nanda devi soon)...all that has been on my to-do for a while. I had originally planned on going in september for a month, and going mountaineering in ladakh. there is Stok Kangri, at 6000m which can be climbed without laying rope (so they say)-- just iceaxe and crampons. easiest 6000m climb around apparently. sadly, school stuff got in the way. but i will do it someday. also, there is the hope of one day sneaking into tibet via north sikkim/nepal border. my homage tank man at tianamen ;-) have you read harish kapadia's book on trekking in the himalayas?

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wow great to hear about fellow ICF mountaineers, i m doing a winter skills programme here in scotland, really gettin into winter climbing for the first time, ice axe and crampons and its really exciting. I've been to Manali and Dharmsala, and the whole uttrakhand area (masuri, dehradun, Nainital) area but never for trekking jus general touristy stuff. I was in the himalayas this summer, wanted to do some trekking but never got round to it. Hopefully next year or the year after I shall be able to. I want to get to atleast 5000-6000m range in the next 2 years.

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yamunotri will be intractable by early jan, i am told.
Probably true. It's at a good 4000-4500 meters from what I have heard.
wow,valley of flowers, pindari, gangotri (and nanda devi soon)...all that has been on my to-do for a while.
Doing my undergrad in Chandigarh and having like minded friends really helped. No need to study till a few weeks before the exams and a lot of adventurous people around. Perfect combination.
I had originally planned on going in september for a month, and going mountaineering in ladakh. there is Stok Kangri, at 6000m which can be climbed without laying rope (so they say)-- just iceaxe and crampons. easiest 6000m climb around apparently. sadly, school stuff got in the way. but i will do it someday.
Laddakh is beautiful. For newbies like me it also gives some very good places to do mountaineering because of it's very dry climate, very little snow and crevices to take into account.
have you read harish kapadia's book on trekking in the himalayas?
No. What is it about and is it good? I love reading personal accounts of mountaineering etc. but don't have much time for a book which just gives which spots are like what etc. One of the best ways to get the best hiking routes in India is talking to the locals.
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The Kapadia book is mostly trail descriptions. nothing anecdotal, so perhaps you wouldn't be interested. I found a trail resource for Uttaranchal: http://chitrang.srivastava.googlepages.com/TrekkingReport.pdf And the AMS topo maps for India: http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/ams/india/ Lemme know if there are some un-missable trails around berkeley. I hope to climb shasta in may.

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